Day 184 [April 4, 0700 JST]

Best distance in a month with continued push from the east. A little, if a bit bloody, reminder from the gods of Cape Horn: Be careful! We review the boat & weather conditions with just 3 days to go to the Cape.

Position:
56 01 S, 59 35 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 61.6%

Heading: 207
Boat speed: 5.2 kt (week's ave.: 3.79)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 125 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 84 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,044 nm (29,713 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 10,001 nm
Yokohama ETA: 110 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 57
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 105

To WP8 Cape Horn: 257 nm / 2.9 days (April 7)

Weather: Overcast
Barometer: 998 hPa
Waves: 3 - 4 m
Wind (from): 26-28 kt ESE -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): 0.2 kt WNW
Engine: 24 hr @ 1700 rpm (144 L) -- 27.5% fuel left
Generator: 2.0 hr (3.5 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 100%
Genoa: 0%

Today's Report

Solid winds blowing from ESE gave him his best distance since March 1. He sailed largely south and motored at 1600-1700 rpm to ease pressure on the autopilot, achieving 125 nm for the 24-hour period. Of this, 84 nm was DMG progress toward Cape Horn, of which he will pass the eastern-most tip in 150 nm. Our target waypoint (WP3 below), 10 nm due south of a group of islands at the center on the Horn, should be reached in 3 days. (He will probably pass somewhat below WP3, being pushed further south by the ESE winds.)

Winds in the next 48 hours will moderate, continuing from the ESE. They will drop from the high 20s this morning, gradually easingf over 20 hours to the mid teens, then rising slightly to the high teens in 38 hours. No cold fronts were forecast.

A gale above the Falklands with winds into the 40s will not affect him, though it will bear watching.

He reported having a sleepless night, and at one point fell down when the boat suddenly lurched. Later he realized on seeing himself in a mirror in the head that he had cut his right ear lobe when he fell. He took photos of the bandaged ear, and confirmed there was no other sign of injury.

***
Saito-san reached the 16,000 nm point yesterday. (We will reset the DMG odometer after he reaches the Cape to reflect actual distance made good (DMG), rather than sailing distance, which includes actual plus tacking distances.)

Added Comment

A brief review as he approaches the Horn:

Autopilot: Winds have been mostly kind so far, blowing steadily out of the ESE but are causing problems with the autopilot. The hydraulic self-steering system operates erratically when there are strong aft winds. So for the time being he has been sailing more south than desired to keep the winds well on a port tack. He also manually steers when he feels a need to crab more to the west. At the time of his call he was motor-sailing (at medium rpms) with the main down and full staysail.

Mainsail:  This is more of a problem. As we stated several days ago, he lost the use of the No. 2 batten car after it pulled out of the mainsail track. Days earlier this occurred to the No. 1 car. To prevent sail damage he is now reluctant to use the main, even heavily reefed, until the winds can reduce enough. He said this morning that today he will probably open the genoa to about 70% to improve downwind performance.

Weather:  Presently ClearPoint shows what passes for “mild” weather on the Cape. In the next 48 hours winds are expected to be in the mid teens to low 20s, with waves between 3.5 and 5 meters. On past the Cape sea conditions are stronger, with a very broad low approaching over the next 3 or 4 days. If that low stays well spread out, with wide pressure gradations, the winds should stay relatively mild. Key is that they don't become overly strong out of the west, which would put the Chilean coast on his lee after he passes the Horn. Ideally it will be good if flow mainly out of the west in the mid-20s to give him a good port or even beam reach as he moves up the Chilean coast. (This will be significantly helped by the use of one or both batten cars on the main, if he can manage to fit them back into the sail track under reduced wind conditions. However, he can still use the main under moderate wind conditions even without the cars engaged.)

Fuel:  As of this morning he had an estimated 27% of the fuel he had onboard when he left Cape Town. At moderate engine speeds (1600 or 1700 rpm) he uses approx. 2 - 2.5% every 24 hours of motoring. Allowing for a 10% margin, this gives him enough fuel for about 7-9 days of 24-hour motor-sailing, if needed (though 4 to 12 hours is more likely). After that he will need to put in at a Chilean port to replenish fuel for the rest of the voyage.

The Skipper:  He is cold with winds blowing at 30 knots at an ambient air temperature at 7 C (44 F), or below 30 F wind chill factor (and colder still, of course, from sea spray). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_chill

He had no sleep at all last night due to the strong winds, erratic autopilot, and 4-5 meter seas. However, this morning he sounded invigorated (“genki!”) and was happy to hear that the winds will moderate over the next 48 hours, with no fronts expected. His ear injury was fortunately slight but shows what can happen when fatigue sets in. He said he took photos of his bandaged ear, and promised, with a laugh, to take special care. This time the gods of Cape Horn let him off with a warning.

He appreciated the well-wishes from Nico Roehreke, president of Nicole BMW, the main sponsor, who wrote:

“I wanted to ask you to let Saito-san know, during your next telephone conversation with him, that EVERYONE at Nicole will be intensively rooting for him during the next days, during his difficult passage of the Cape Horn.”

Day 185 [April 5, 0700 JST]

Closing in on the Cape under ideal weather and favorable winds. No success yet on the main. Another bit of sailing serendipity.

Position:
56 26 S, 62 13 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 61.9%

Heading: 300
Boat speed: 3.8 kt (week's ave.: 3.74)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 92 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 88 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,136 nm (29,884 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 9,909 nm
Yokohama ETA: 110 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 56
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 104

To WP8 Cape Horn: 167 nm / 1.9 days (April 7)

Weather: Partly cloudy
Barometer: 1000 hPa
Waves: 2.5 m
Wind (from): 15-16 kt ESE -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): 0.4 kt WSW
Engine: 19.75 hr @ 1700 rpm (118.5 L) -- 25.0% fuel left
Generator: 1.25 hr (2.0 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 0%
Genoa: 80%

Today's Report

Fair winds from the east delivered another good day of 92 nm, moving him 88 nm DMG to within 169 nm east of Cape Horn WP3, which we have set as our "official" crossing point at the lowest point of the Horn. Weather is holding and winds over the next 48 hours look to be favorable and moderate, with seas between 2 and 3 m. No cold fronts are seen on ClearPoint.

Past the Horn conditions are stronger, under the influence of a spread-out low and weak trough that at least so far is not showing much punch. The last trough that went through 2 days ago produced winds in the mid-30s. Nothing like that is currently being seen developing.

Winds in the next 48 hours will continue to be be moderate from the ENE. They will maintain in the 16 - 22 kt range, rise slightly, then fall into the mid-teens in about 40 hours, blowing from the NNE.

The gale just above the Falklands (with winds into the low 40s) continues to move east away from Saito-san's position.

Saito-san was able to catch up on his missed sleep yesterday, and was enthused about the weather conditions: "It's very good right now," he said, "I had some snow this morning [that] turned later to rain." The wind and seas, he said, are cooperating and he felt he would see another good day today.

***
Until he is past the Cape he will additionally call in at noon JST. At that time today he had gone an additional 23.8 nm to the west under genoa alone since 7 am, achieving an average speed of 4.8 kt.

Added Comment

At our request Saito-san called Don McIntyre in Hobart, Tasmania, to inform him of his progress toward the Cape and to seek advice on the batten car problem. Don is a long-time friend, a boat-builder/repair specialist, and himself a past solo circumnavigator and competitor in the BOC Challenge. We talked to Don a few minutes after Saito-san's call.

He said he reminded Saito-san that if he needed help to repair the main or to seek refuge he could head to the relative safety of Ushuaia (about 250 nm from his present position). But we agreed that with the weather window being so good that Saito-san should continue under headsails and engine power. He also can raise his storm sail as needed, which would be the case anyway if severe weather sets in.

***
Coincidentally -- but no, not really -- Don said he has been helping with repairs to none other than Mike Perham's boat Totally Money. Mike, who arrived in Hobart on March 4, is one of the two 16-year-old solo circumnavigators Saito-san met up with by chance in Cape Town back in mid-February. (Mike has since had a birthday.) All three hit it off, and we were able to talk briefly from Tokyo with Mike and his dad.

This morning, Don said that in the time Mike has been in Hobart he has helped them address several issues, including problems with the dual rudders, generator, and autopilot. "We're pulling his rudders today and I think we can have him out of here by tomorrow evening," Don informed us.

Totally Money suffered a knock-down as Mike was nearing Australia from what he described as a freak wave, but the racing boat suffered no serious damage. The other gremlins have been his near-constant companions for most of his trip. 

Here's where still another bit of serendipity steps in.

When we talked to Mike's dad back in Cape Town we volunteered to put him in touch with Don... and they apparently did it solely on their own.

"It's a small world," Don pointed out.

Yes, even when separated by roughly 7,000 sea miles!

(Actually, given Don's huge renown in sailing circles Down Under, maybe "even" should be "especially.")

Day 186 [April 6, 0700 JST]

THE day arrives. Weather and winds smile on Saito-san. Just 51 more miles. An 'invisible' mystery ship passes at midnight.

Position:
56 25 S, 65 43 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 62.4%

Heading: 285
Boat speed: 4.7 kt (week's ave.: 3.9)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 116 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 116 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,248 nm (30,091 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 9,797 nm
Yokohama ETA: 104 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 55
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 103

To WP8 Cape Horn: 51 nm / .5 days (April 6 -- later today)

Weather: Partly cloudy
Barometer: 989 hPa
Waves: 1.5 -2.0 m
Wind (from): 20-27 kt ENE -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): 0.3 kt WSW
Engine: 8.0 hr @ 1500 rpm (32.0 L) -- 24.0% fuel left
Generator: 11.0 hr (16.5 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 0%
Genoa: 80%

Today's Report

Excellent progress yesterday of 116 nm and a further nice gain this morning make it certain he will pass Cape Horn's lowest point by sometime today. The weather has been cold at 8 C but Saito-san is NOT complaining about what amounts to an easy sail past the Horn, made even more gratifying by a forecast for the same spot promising 45 kt headwinds in 3 days or sooner.

Under genoa he saw yesterday's miles assisted by slow engine turns to maintain a solid westward heading, with helpful seas between 1.5 and 2 m. Later he sought to go slightly more south to give himself plenty of leeway as the promised strong winds arrive. He wants to be about 50 nm or more away from the Chilean coast before he turns to the north to follow the coastline up.

As we reported yesterday, past the Horn conditions are much stronger, under the influence of an approaching low and trough. This trough (essentially, an elongated low between 2 highs) is now starting to show some influence, with winds from the NW, and possibly W, in the high 30s to mid 40s.

Winds along his track in the next 44 hours will continue to be moderate and favorable mostly from the NE. They will maintain in the 16 - 21 kt range, then ease into the mid-teens from the NW in about 38 hours. After they look ready to strongly pipe up from the northwest and maybe even from due west.

The skipper continues to express his delight at the good weather and progress, though maintains a close awareness of the extreme changeability of this area. A cold front is approaching and with luck he will be some distance past the rocky southern coastline by the time it passes over in 2 days.

***
When he called today at noon, Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III was making 4 kt under genoa alone.

Added Comment

At midnight his time, there was a mystery ship about 2 or 3 miles off Saito-san's port bow apparently slowly pulling away. He could see its navigation lights but, oddly, nothing showed on radar. Attempts to hail the vessel by radio were fruitless.

Last week we alerted the Argentine Coast Guard that Saito-san would be in the area, but there is no indication whether this might have been one of their ships.

***

We wanted to share this, which popped up in today's forecast screen for his position. This is the report from the weather station at Ushuaia, an exotic and magical-sounding name for the world's southern-most city.

Turns out Ushuaia just means "bay toward sunset."

Oh well, it's still pretty.

Please see the attached news release. For convenience it also can be downloaded as an MS Word file here.

Solo Sailor Minoru Saito, 75, Conquers Cape Horn for 5th Time

Japanese Yachtsman Becomes One of a Handful of Solo Sailors to Round the Horn the 'Wrong Way'

CAPE HORN, ARGENTINA — Solo Japanese yachtsman Minoru Saito took another step into the annals of sailing today, rounding Cape Horn for the fifth time in his 36-year yachting career, this time going the “wrong way around.” He celebrated with a half-bottle of champagne, pouring a portion into the sea in the traditional gesture of thankful crews who pass this dangerous spot.

“I'm really happy” he exclaimed, as he kampai'ed along with shore support back in Tokyo over a satellite phone connection.

Cape Horn, just 500 miles from the top edge of the southern ice pack, is considered the world's most treacherous sailing grounds with frequent stormy weather and gale-force winds that can blow for days on end. For Saito in his 56-foot yacht Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III, the weather could not have been more ideal with mild seas and steady, favorable winds. Strong headwinds are expected in two days but by then he will have started moving up the west coast of Chile into gradually warmer and less threatening waters.

On Day 186, he is now 62 percent finished on the 26,000-mile solo voyage he began last October that is his record eighth single-handed circumnavigation of the globe. The voyage is expected to take another two to three months.

He will be 75 when he returns, completing a yachting feat that promises to make virtually invincible his standing as the world's oldest and most-accomplished single-handed circumnavigator. He'll be able to claim records for most, oldest, and oldest westward “contrary” circumnavigations. He already holds the Guinness Book world record as the oldest person to complete a non-stop solo circumnavigation at age 71 in 2005.

Only a handful of sailors have succeeded in a “wrong-way” westward circumnavigation against the prevailing winds and seas, and none approaching Saito's venerable age. He was forced to put in at several ports for repairs, thus could not accomplish a hoped-for non-stop circumnavigation.

Sponsors of this voyage include main donor Nicole BMW, with supporting contributions from Albion, Clearpoint Weather, Barilla Japan, Japan Radio Corporation, Henri Lloyd, Fujiki Group, U.S. Dairy Export Council, and Saito's high school alumni association Yasuda Gakuen. He is assisted by a volunteer organization that includes members in Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania, China, and the U.S. More sponsors are being sought.

Saito has been recognized by sailing magazines and yachting organizations throughout the world. In January 2007 he received the Blue Water Medal of the Cruising Club of America to a standing ovation by its salty members, a recognition considered the top international prize for adventure sailing. He thus became the first Asian to win the highly vaunted prize in its 86-year history.

He was also inducted in 2006 into the Single-handed Sailing Hall of Fame in Newport, Rhode Island, joining such historic figures as Joshua Slocum and Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, the first to complete a non-stop voyage around the world.

Day 187 [April 7, 0700 JST]

Saito-san toasts the spirits of the sea, gives thanks for passage No. 5 as dawn broke yesterday. Tougher conditions follow as he gets into position to make his turn up north.

Position:
56 37 S, 68 21 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 62.7%

Heading: 225
Boat speed: 3.7 kt (week's ave.: 3.94)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 89 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 85 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,337 nm (30,256 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 10,044 nm (after reset)
Yokohama ETA: 106 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 54
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 102

To WP9 Humboldt Current: 1,075 nm / 11.4 days

Weather: Partly cloudy, rain
Barometer: 990 hPa
Waves: 3.0 - 3.5 m
Wind (from): 25-30 kt NW -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): Not reported
Engine: 5.0 hr @ 1500 rpm (20.0 L) -- 23.25% fuel left
Generator: 8.5 hr (12.75 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 0%
Genoa: 70%

Today's Report

Saito-san tipped a bit of champagne into the frigid waters off the coast of Argentina at the crack of dawn yesterday to give thanks to the spirits for his 5th successful passage of Cape Horn. The memories of those earlier crossings were also with him, especially the 1994-5 single-handed race that took the life of his fellow BOC competitor and long-time friend, Harry Mitchell. In the Cape Horn leg of that race, Saito-san's vessel was rolled and Mitchell's was lost without a trace during a 6-day storm.

As he slipped by the Horn's midpoint, the southern-most point of South America, dawn broke on moderate seas with favorable winds blowing in the mid-teens from the ENE. He was too far out to spot land but had wanted to give himself plenty of sea room in anticipation of heavier winds soon to arrive from the west.

This time the weather waited to turn unfavorable until he was a few hours past the cape, and as of this morning's call winds had risen into the high 20s to low 30s from the NW.

As he pulls away further from the coastline he will be able to turn northward and begin converting into motive power, on a port tack, what have been near constant headwinds since the middle of March. The gratifying exception has been the last 4 days when they blew from the east and northeast on relatively flat seas of 1.5 to 2.5 meters. Conditions could scarcely have been better.

He saw most of yesterday's 89 nm under a 70% genoa. Later he sought to go slightly more south to give himself plenty of leeway as the promised strong winds arrive. He wants to be about 50 nm or more off the Chilean coastline before he turns north to follow the Humboldt Current.

Winds in the next 38 hours will maintain in the 16 - 26 kt range from the W, reduce somewhat, then climb back into the low 30s.

Added Comment

Past the cape Saito-san will hitch a ride on the powerful Humboldt Current that flows northward up the Chilean Coast. He could follow it almost the entire 3,500 nm to the Equator if he wished, but his route more directly back to Yokohama requires that he leave it after about a thousand miles.

Day 188 [April 8, 0700 JST]

With the Cape behind, things slow a bit. Radar has another blind moment, and we get a bit of a shock.

Position:
56 20 S, 69 36 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 62.9%

Heading: 259
Boat speed: 1.9 kt (week's ave.: 3.61)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 45 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 40 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,382 nm (30,339 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 10,018 nm (after reset)
Yokohama ETA: 115 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 53
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 101

To WP9 Humboldt Current: 1,035 nm / 11.9 days

Weather: Overcast, rain, 8 deg C
Barometer: 1001 hPa
Waves: 3.0 - 3.5 m
Wind (from): 15-20 kt WNW -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): .2 kt NNW
Engine: 16.75 hr @ 1600 rpm (75.5 L) -- 21.6% fuel left
Generator: 1.5 hr (2.5 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 0%
Genoa: 80%

Today's Report

DMG was off yesterday as things slowed in the face of unfavorable winds. Saito-san rode moderate winds to the south and then back up to the NW on a reach into 30 kt winds from the west, eking out just 45 nm for the period. His limited maneuvering room as he works the rest of his way through Drake Passage is bounded by the rocky Chilean coastline on his right, and by the frigid temperatures of the Antartica on his left. (Even 50 nm causes a variance of several degrees centigrade, as well as stronger sea conditions.)

Winds will be in the 13 - 24 kt range from the SW and WSW throughout most of the night, remain steady from the west at 30 kt for about 12 hours, then rise into the low 30s from the NNW accompanied by 5 m seas in 38 hours.

Added Comment

Last evening a bit after daybreak (that was fun to write :) ), Saito-san called to ask about an island he could see off his starboard side. "I see an island, no, 3 islands, but they're not on my chart. I think they are about 12 miles away." The surprise was that they also did not show up on the radar, which has a range of about 24 miles.

We consulted Google Earth. No islands. Next, ClearPoint. No islands. Then, almost as an afterthought we looked at the detailed chart specially ordered for Drake Passage, and there they were: Islas Diego Ramirez, consisting of 3 tiny islands that were now less than 10 nm off his lee rail in the gathering light of dawn a full 45 nm south of the cape. Yikes!

It was a lesson, certainly, that Google Earth with all its fancy satellite telemetry should not -- cannot -- be trusted, but it was also another indication that the boat's radar isn't working properly. That mystery ship the other night also did not appear on the radar screen. And neither did the Diego Ramirez island group way out from the Cape Horn coast, one of which is significant enough to sport a flashing beacon every 15 seconds, according to our paper chart. Saito-san said he never saw it.

The irony of blundering into an island that is not there, after easily passing the storied and treacherous Cape Horn, is more than we wish to think about.

(We've marked the islands with a flag in the image at the top of today's report.)

Day 189 [April 9, 0700 JST]

Slow tacking out of Drake Passage. Next, the quest for diesel along a desolate stretch of the Chilean coast.

Position:
56 208 S, 70 21 W

Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 63.0%

Heading: 315 (NW)
Boat speed: 1.1 kt (week's ave.: 3.49)
Distance sailed in last 24 hours: 26 nm
DMG in last 24 hours: 26 nm
Distance from Yokohama: 16,408 nm (30,388 km)
Distance remaining to Yokohama: 9,992 nm
Yokohama ETA: 119 days (based on 7-day ave. boat speed)
Days until:
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Opening Ceremony: 52
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Masters Dinghy Race: 79
Yokohama 150th Anniversary Marine Fest: 100

To WP9 Humboldt Current: 1,004 nm / 12.0 days

Weather: Overcast, 7 deg C
Barometer: 997 hPa
Waves: 3.5 m
Wind (from): 25-30 kt WSW -- estimated (no wind instruments)
Current (from): .2 kt NW
Engine: 7.5 hr @ 1600 rpm (35.0 L) -- 20.6% fuel left
Generator: 8.75 hr (13.0 L)
Sails
Main: 0%
Staysail: 100%
Genoa: 0%

Today's Report

It's proving tough to make the exit of Drake Passage as winds swap directions and force Saito-san to tack in response. When the winds are from the west as they were much of yesterday, he tacks south to gain sea room, or NW to work on progress/DMG toward his eventual turn up north. As of this morning he was back on a slow (2 kt) port tack to NW after the wind steadied from WSW. It was supposed to hold like that for about 12 hours, then swap again to out of the NNW.

He's also conserving fuel, thus made just 26 nm for the period mostly sailing in large tacking maneuvers. You can especially see these zig-zags in the last few days now that we've asked him to call in his position 3 times a day (thus his interim positions are also showing up in the plot image).

Winds will be in the high 20s to low 30s from the WSW for the next 8 hours, remain steady from NNW at 30 kt for the following 24 hours, then rise into the mid-30s back to WSW in 38 hours. Seas will be high at 4.5 to 5 m.

Added Comment

The situation Saito-san faces at the moment is not dire, BUT:

• he has a main he cannot safely raise without threat of damage from strong winds, and

• he has about 20-24 days of diesel fuel left to run his generator and, if an extended gale occurs, power the engine to keep him safely off a lee shore.

Under the constant strong sea conditions of the Furious Fifties he has not been able to repair the sail with its two sprung batten cars. They pulled out of the track in the main mast, and no longer can be used to keep the sail tightly affixed to the mast when it is raised. Reinserting the cars requires at least a steady boat under light or no wind and mild seas, or the assistance of another crew.

Saito-san indicated yesterday that he may rig the stormsail if he cannot fix the main soon. Though small, the stormsail might add a few miles to the daily totals.

In respect to fuel we will be waiting to find out what Saito-san decides. We've scoured (much thanks, Tony) the western coast of Chile, which is clearly one of the most desolate areas of the world, seemingly bereft of any sign of human habitation for 800 miles. We've scoured it on Google Earth, and usually some small port shows up on sat photos. But not along this isolated stretch of the uber-deep South Pacific.

(Lest you look yourself, and please do, we think Puerto Monnt in about 750 nm up is too far inland to be practical, plus Saito-san has no detailed charts of that area.)

As you go farther and farther up, at long last, at Mile 1700, you happen on the sparkling Chilean city of Valparaiso. This place has likely gladdened the hearts of many a cruiser -- Valparaiso is not only right there on the ocean, it also has at least 3 marinas that cater to yachts AND boasts 2 yacht clubs.

There's another not-so-small matter: When Saito-san says "Fill 'er up," they have to be able to take a credit card.

Then, with replenished tanks, that is expected to be his last stop before Yokohama.

Southern Coast of Chile

Puerto Monnt, the lower yellow pin

Valparaiso, the upper yellow pin