Day 190 [April 10, 0700 JST] Dangerous tack in the face of deteriorating conditions, with 45-knot winds and 5-meter waves. Position:
Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 63.1% Heading: 221 (SW) To WP9 Humboldt Current: 977 nm / 13.1 days Weather: Overcast, 6.6 deg C Today's Report A day of vexingly changeable and unfavorable winds. In the first 12 hours he actually lost ground, just 4 nm, but causing the frustrated skipper to exclaim, "I'm going back to Cape Horn!" He had given up those miles during the night, but later was assisted by winds from NNW that allowed him to reclaim the lost miles and achieve a DMG of 31 nm for the 24-hour period. He used the engine sparingly at medium rpms to conserve fuel. The wind and seas are already at a near high for the voyage and are heading still higher over the next 2 days. A powerful low pressure system moving in from the west is causing rapidly deteriorating conditions. [image] He is caught by the clockwise-rotating wind vortex of the low as it passes below him over the next 24 hours. As of 7 am JST the winds were forecast to be in the high 30s to low 40s from the WNW for the next 6-8 hours, turn from the west at 40 kt for the following 24 hours, then in 38 hours ease into the high 20s back to WNW. Seas will be high at 4.5 to 6 m. Added Comment At 2 pm JST Saito-san called in his position and said that the conditions were getting "very difficult" with large seas and winds he estimated at "over 40 knots, probably 40 to 45 knots" from the west. He thought the seas were "at least 5 meters, maybe 6." Over the last 6 hours he has gone southwest in the face of WNW winds and reported, now that the winds were starting to come from the west, that he needed to turn back to the northwest. The "strong winds and big waves make [a tack back to the NW] very dangerous, very dangerous," he said, but that he was going to have to try, since "I have to stay away from the low." [Note: The center of the low, as shown in the image we advanced 7 hours in ClearPoint, is about 240 nm south of his 2 pm position. ClearPoint indicates it has a very low barometric pressure of 958 mb. Saito reported 984 mb at his location.] Position of the approaching low in 7 hours
*** "Yes, everything is ok," he confirmed. He sounded confident and pleased with the boat's performance, but was clearly relieved. (WE certainly were!) |
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Day 191 [April 11, 0700 JST] A day of lying ahull, waiting for dangerous seas to pass. Saito sees his first boat damage and first ice. Position:
Distance completed to Yokohama finish: 63.0% Heading: Drifting (W) To WP9 Humboldt Current: 983 nm / 14.1 days Weather: Overcast, 7.7 deg C Today's Report A trough accompanying a large low cell that passed 250 nm south of Saito-san's position delivered sea conditions that forced him into survival mode as he doused all sails, buttoned up the boat, and laid “ahull to the wind” to ride out the blow. As of this morning's call Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III was drifting eastward at about 1 kt in 45-kt winds and 9- to 10-m seas.
The boat and skipper are fine though there's been a toll. He's had a mostly sleepless two nights, and the boat is now sans its sideband radio antenna. “It's gone, completely disappeared,” Saito-san stated during a frequently broken and reestablished Iridium connection. His six-man survival raft, he reported, has also become dislodged from its mount, a structure that was strongly bolted to the aft deck the week before he left Yokohama. The container is still closed for the self-inflating raft, and Saito said he will re-secure it once the seas drop and the severe rolling is over. “I can't go out on deck at all until then,” he explained. Inside, water from sea spray has been finding its way through the aft companionway (even with it closed), and he's been able to sponge that up. Otherwise there is no water in the bilges. He took pains to explain that under these conditions the only prudent thing is to simply wait it out and drift. Fighting a 45-kt opposing wind is a waste of effort and invites trouble from overstressing the rigging, fittings, lines, and sails. Not to mention the crew. For now he seems fine and planned to catch up on his sleep this morning, which is his night. And for us back on land it will be pins & needles as we await his next call. *** Added Comment He reported seeing his first ice yesterday, best described as a small “berger bit” -- not a large iceberg but a chunk large enough to be spotted at some distance. He said it was the first he'd seen and yet another reason to start drifting rather than risk an encounter with larger ice being driven by huge wind-driven sea swells and an opposing current for a potential head-on collision -- especially in the pitch dark. |
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Day 192 [April 12, 0700 JST] Breaking News: Position:
Today's Report During yesterday's heavy seas and strong winds, Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III became disabled due to rudder problems. We contacted the Chilean Navy and they judged it to be an emergency and requested assistance from a Chilean fish-processing factory ship, the closest vessel large enough to negotiate the seas that were still at 8.5 meters at the time. Saito-san was taken in by the ship and the yacht is presently being towed to the Diego Ramirez Islands, the small group of islands he passed earlier in the week. Until NBSDIII became disabled Saito-san had drifted in 10-m seas and 45 kt winds for more than 20 hours as a strong low passed south of him. It took about 6 hours for the factory ship to rendezvous with the yacht approximately 70 nm south of Cape Horn. He drifted without use of the rudder beginning at 2 am local time/2 pm JST until the rendezvous about 14 hours later.
The arrow marks the point of the emergency rendezvous. Seen here, the Diego Ramirez Islands were about 35 nm away at 9 pm local time. Saito-san was fine and appreciative, and hopeful to get back under way once the rudder problem is fixed. A line became wrapped around the rudder, making it inoperable, and conditions were too dangerous for it to be removed. No further details were immediately available, but further assistance has been offered by the Chilean Navy. [Later it was found that the rudder shaft had been bent at a 20-degree angle, and was the cause of Saito-san's inability to steer.] We wish to express our profound thanks for the Chilean Navy's prompt and excellent help, and to the captain of the factory ship that came to Saito-san's assistance quickly under very difficult circumstances. We hope to hear from Saito-san soon and will try to provide more details later. No doubt he is highly fatigued after 3 days of very little sleep. A few hours prior to the rudder problem he stated he was "No, not worried," but later agreed that assistance was required as there was no way for him to clear the line under the extreme conditions in water only a few degrees C above freezing. |
Day 193 [April 13, 0700 JST] Breaking News: Position:
Today's Report The morning 0900 JST beacon report showed NBSDIII still was under tow and 134 nm from the rendezvous point with the Chilean factory ship. It appears they are headed for Puerto Williams, Chile, about 50 nm distant from the morning position.
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Day 194 [April 14, 0700 JST]
Last known position:
Today's Report We've still not heard from Saito-san, but understand from the Chilean Navy rescue service command center that Nicole BMW Shuten Dohji III is under way to Punta Arenas on the Strait of Magellan. Apparently she is in the company of another vessel, and may still be under tow. The ETA is about 2 am JST April 15. Both the captain and the vessel were said to be "fine." No other details were available.
Punta Arenas, from Wikipedia Strait of Magellan, from Wikipedia
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Day 195 [April 15, 0700 JST]
Position:
Today's Report Hooray! As we had anticipated, Saito-san finally was able to call home by Iridium about 9 am JST. At the time of his call the vessel was tied up to a large mooring buoy just outside Punta Arenas, Chile, in the Strait of Magellan. He was tired but happy and about to turn in for the night.
He reported that he'd been towed there by a fishing boat and that preparations were being made to do several repairs on Nicole BMW Shuten Dohji III. He said the rudder was OK although it was not clear (to us) whether the line was still wrapped around the propeller. He said repairs will be made to the main sail and the SSB radio antenna, and refueling will be carried out over the next 3 days. A sail loft will be required for the sail repair, and it is expected that a loft can be found in this city of about 140,000 people. He apologized for keeping everyone in suspense but said this was the first opportunity to place a call. We said we understood, and that we had been keeping up with his position with the twice-daily locator beacon reports as well as advisories from the Chilean Navy rescue service. (Once again, the beacon has proven its value. Thanks again, Jerry Zack!) Asked about the sea conditions prior to the rescue, he said that he'd never before experienced waves of 9.5 meters "even in the biggest typhoon" he has been through. He sounded more in awe than unnerved by the ordeal. He was also complimentary of the help he had received from the Chilean Navy and the factory ship they dispatched to help him. The seas were at 6 meters and winds in the 30s at the time so towing the 50,000-lb., 56-foot vessel must have been quite a challenge. We expect to have more details tomorrow about his plans for the repairs and resumption of the voyage. We'll also try to get some more comments about what he's gone through over the last 4 days. Unfortunately, the Iridium connection continues to be spotty. (It was, as well, with the Navy's Iridium phone.) |
Day 200 [April 20, 0700 JST]
Position: Today's Report Today is the 200th day since the start of the circumnavigation. Saito-san remains at a mooring in the Strait of Magellan at Punta Arenas, Chile, attending to boat chores and holding debriefing sessions by phone and in face-to-face meetings. He sounded upbeat in the morning call and noted wryly that it seemed to be warming up a little: "It's now 9 degrees C," he reported. He said that he's almost out of his Tokyo cache of chemical heating bags, and would switch soon to a rubber hot-water bag. There is no cabin heating system. Winter will be setting in soon.
We fully expect matters over the towing claim to be resolved soon. In the meantime the voyage remains on hold. Again, we appreciate the various emails and phone calls offering encouragement for Saito-san. We continue to pass them along. |
Day 205 [April 25, 0700 JST]
Position: Today's Report Nicole BMW Shuten Dohji III remains at the mooring in Punta Arenas as Saito-san (and we back in Tokyo) sort through the financial claim that has been raised by the company that provided the rescue vessel and tow. We greatly appreciate the calls and emails that have been coming in, and the many well wishes to Saito-san. We'll hopefully be able to provide more details soon, but for now suffice it to say that Saito-san is well and anxious to resume his voyage. |
Day 209 [April 29, 0700 JST]
Position: Today's Report We're happy to report some progress being made after the rope blocking the rudder and wrapped around the propeller was removed by a dry-suited diver earlier this week. Including pictures taken for the insurance company the operation took 3 hours, with the removal of the well wrapped line (the main sheet) taking about an hour, Saito-san estimated. At least 4 persons were on hand to assist, with NBSDIII tied to a ship's mooring on a day when calm weather had finally visited. The difficulty of that attested to the impossibility of Saito-san doing the removal unassisted during a gale on the open seas below Cape Horn. In his call this morning he said he had today moved the boat to the wharf of a fishing port where he will be able to begin arranging repairs, including for towing damage to the steel deck railing, anchor winch, deck bollard, and replacing the lost anchor. Repairs to the main sail must also be done. The radio antenna lost during the gale must also be replaced. An electrician has also been summoned to restore operation of the wind instruments and radar. For persons not having seen these rather infrequent updates while we've awaited repairs in Chile, today is the 209th since the start of the circumnavigation. Saito-san remains in the Strait of Magellan at Punta Arenas, Chile, where he has been since NBSDIII was towed there April 15 on Day 195. Saito-san said it was getting colder, and that there was a dusting of snow on the boat today. Last week we sent him a DHL package of his medication and a supply of "hokaron" chemical heating packs. Discussions with the insurance company over the tow and related costs are ongoing. Until then the voyage remains on hold. Our continued thanks for the numerous emails and phone calls offering encouragement to Saito-san. And a huge and special thanks to "x" who has pledged to wire Saito Challenge 8 a monthly donation until Saito-san gets back. The first amount appeared yesterday in the Saito 8 account. The donor called it "beer money" but faced with the mounting costs every bit helps! We received these photos of the damage that occurred during the rescue and tow. The anchor winch can be seen at left after being ripped from its mounting. The heavy towing bollard was also broken off and can be seen in the bow held fast with green line that was used later to keep it aboard. The anchor is gone. There was no word on the anchor chain.
A welder has been called in to repair the damaged deck railing.
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Day 227 [May 17, JST] Storm video at Cape Horn Position: Today's Report There's nothing we can report at the moment other than that Saito-san is still waiting at a fishing port in Punta Arenas. Discussions over the expense of the tow and damages caused by the tow are still under way. We hope to have some details in a few days. In the meantime, here's a 37-minute clip of one of the last Cape Horn "wrong way" passages of a full-rigged nitrate clipper, spectacularly filmed in 1929. If you're short on time, and just want to see a "Class A storm" at about the same location where Saito-san was hit by the gale, click this link and fast forward to minute 22.
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Day 277 [July 6, JST] Settlement reached in salvage claim. Repair stage now under way. Position: Today's Report Finally, we have good news to report from Punta Arenas, Chile. On Friday, a settlement was reached before a Chilean court in the negotiations with Pesca Chile, the commercial fishing company that came to Saito-san's aid when his vessel became disabled at Cape Horn. Under the agreement, the original salvage claim was substantially reduced, with the final payment being borne by our insurance company. The vessel, which had been impounded pending resolution of this claim, will be released shortly back to Saito-san, and he will be free to leave, repairs and weather permitting. The next step is to make repairs of damages that occurred during the Cape Horn incident and the subsequent 400-mile tow. Saito-san will remain with the vessel in a small fishing harbor in Punta Arenas as repairs are carried out over the harsh southern winter. It is anticipated that in the Chilean spring (about 3 months from now), when weather allows, he will return to the point where the tow began and resume his record-breaking 8th single-handed circumnavigation. Once under way, the remaining portion is expected to take approximately 2 1/2 months. We've received numerous emails asking for updates and we appreciate your continued interest and support. Due to the sensitive nature of negotiations in both Chile and Japan, we had not been able to provide further details but now a settlement has been attained. We thank our local lawyer in Chile, Nicolas Alvarez, and Saito 8 Committee co-chair Gary Thomas of the law firm of White & Case LLP in Tokyo, for their able representation to reach this result. We have been gratified as well by the support of our insurance company here in Tokyo under these extraordinarily difficult conditions. It's been a long and frustrating three months but the important thing is that Saito is safe, the vessel was saved, and this incredible drama can now continue. As we move to the repair stage and continue to support Saito-san during his stay in Punta Arenas, we naturally will incur additional expenses. Although repair expenses and other expenses related to this incident are subject to insurance coverage, we need to continue discussions with our insurance company, and it is not clear to what extent our coverage will be sufficient to cover expenses. Therefore, we will continue to rely upon you, our supporters, for assistance for Saito-san's voyage. |
Day 301 [July 30, JST] First estimates start to come in as repairs begin. Boat to be hauled for rudder and keel inspection. Ay carumba, it's cold! Position: Today's Report Efforts continue in Puerto Arenas, Chile, to prepare Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III for departure in mid to late September. Minoru Saito is generously being assisted by a long-time Japanese resident of the city, Hitoshi Hanaoka, who has become Saito-san's much-needed “guardian angel” during the extended repair and weather layover. Few residents speak anything other than Spanish so Saito-san is highly dependent on Mr. Hanaoka, owner of a local fishing company, who is fluent in Japanese, Spanish, and English. (More recently, Gonzalo Aviles, manager of a local shipping company, has been helping Saito-san as well and is also much appreciated.) Estimates are just beginning to trickle in, most notably for repair of rigging damage caused by the tow from below Cape Horn up to Chile's (thus the world's) southernmost city. Despite the relatively large size of Punta Arenas, pop: 140,000, sailboat specialists and parts have been difficult to source locally. All repairs involve damage caused by the storm and subsequent 400-nm tow after the yacht was disabled in the inky dark on 10-meter seas during a three-day, 45-knot gale just as Saito-san was passing Cape Horn. He had already given a grateful toast to the gods of the notoriously stormy cape when misfortune struck at 2 am on the 192nd day of the circumnavigation. Damaged Rudder Shaft Later investigation determined that the rudder shaft had been wrenched out of alignment at a 20-degree angle, crippling the vessel. A line, washed overboard by boarding waves during the storm, became caught by the propeller and could only be removed days later with patience and a knife by a dry-suited diver at a mooring in Punta Arenas. At one point, as Saito-san awaited the arrival of a 100-foot fishing factory ship directed to his assistance by the Chilean navy, we were informed that NBSDIII would be left to drift. “We can save the skipper, but not the ship,” we were warned by a no-nonsense Chilean navy commander at the rescue center in Puerto Williams. The captain of the factory ship changed his mind despite seas that were still running 8.5 meters when he saw the stricken boat, and finally acceded to Saito-san's refusal to give up his ship. Neither could speak each other's language, but the ageless code of the sea won out.
On arrival three days later in Punta Arenas, NBSDIII was temporarily impounded by a Chilean court as a claim was negotiated over the tow charges. In early July, the tow fee was paid by insurance and the impoundment order was lifted. Determination of the full extent of boat damage could then be made and estimates collected. Repairs List Storm and tow damage to the 56-foot, all-steel vessel includes a destroyed jib furler, badly bent tubular steel deck railings, a ripped out anchor winch and sampson post, and miscellaneous repairs to the forward area. (Picture below.) At some point during the tow the anchor was ripped away and it, as well as several hundred feet of anchor chain and rode, went to the bottom. Repairs to all three sails and replacing damaged or lost lines also join the list. Other items are expected to be added. In the next few days, the boat will be lifted out for hull inspection. At that time the rudder can be inspected and repaired, or parts ordered. Saito-san expressed concern over the possibility of further keel damage due to the shallowness of the harbor, since the vessel, with its nearly 6-foot draft, rests on the harbor bottom each time the tide goes out. The boat has a full keel; a different type would be more subject to damage.
Saito-san's Condition In the meantime, Saito-san is in good spirits but expresses frustration over the slowness of getting anything done quickly. He spends his days making shopping forays for food, preparing meals, and attending to boat chores and protecting the yacht, which is rafted to other boats in a small fishing harbor. Due to security concerns he must stay with the yacht virtually all the time, though is occasionally spelled by one of Mr. Hanaoka's employees when he must leave the boat for an extended time. There are frequent boarders as fishing crews cross over to get to their own vessels. Although Saito-san's health continues to be good, the cold of the Chilean winter has added to his daily concerns, including keeping the boat warm with use of a locally supplied electric space heater. The heater is used for a few hours twice a day operating off current from the engine. (Both the engine and auxiliary generator are in good working order, thanks to the attention by a diesel mechanic dispatched from Mr. Hanaoka's company.) Saito said he has started having trouble with shimoyake from the cold that has hit zero in recent days. Shimoyake, Japanese for “skin burn,” erupts into painfully aching cold sores -- chilblains -- on the joints of his feet and hands. Our thanks to the Japanese Consul We are additionally beholden to the Japanese consulate in Santiago, which helped us solve the delivery problems that occurred when we attempted to resupply Saito's heart medication back in May, and send him chemical heat bags that are popular in Japan. Despite dispatching the items by DHL (with full documentation), delivery was held up for more than a month by Chilean customs, and required Saito to visit a local medical doctor to obtain the necessary paperwork to clear his heart pills. A second delivery arranged in early July took about 10 days to reach him (at a fraction of the cost by normal mail) by way of the Japanese consulate. This time, English-language local charts as well as more medicine and heat packs were sent. For the foreseeable future Saito-san expects to remain in Punta Arenas, especially now that a rigger has been found and the new furler can be ordered and installed. Harken, the maker, has informed us that the old furler type is no longer manufactured so a completely new system will be required. Later he may work his way southeast to Puerto Williams or possibly Ushuaia on the Beagle Channel, where there is a community of live-aboard cruisers. He is expected to leave Chile for Yokohama in September, allowing a return to Japan sometime after the end of the north Pacific typhoon season in November.
Tow up to Punta Arenas, Chile
Damage to foredeck. |
Day 366 [Oct. 4 JST] Saito's departure nears as key repairs are made; Position: Today's Report Well, we've got our fingers crossed -- it looks like we have a countdown for Saito-san's departure. They are under intense final preparations, capped tomorrow when a rigger flies down from Santiago tasked with installing the new jib furling system and doing a thorough rigging inspection. A diver will provide an underwater check of the rudder. Once the rudder and the furler are crossed off the repair list, Saito-san will conduct sea trials on Oct. 8 and 9. If everything checks out, he will depart Punta Arenas before noon on Oct. 10. He will sail south and east on the Strait of Magellan and reach a point that will allow him to sail parallel to his track in April when Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III was disabled during a three-day gale at Cape Horn. He expects to round the Cape again, approx. 5 nm south of land -- and not further south due to scattered ice flows spawned by broken-up winter ice. A Visit to the Hospital About a month ago he started having severe pains in the abdominal area, and it was discovered that he had developed a hernia in the lower right groin. It was quickly decided after x-rays that he would have surgery, which has left him a bit tender but he was pronounced ready to sail by his doctor this past Monday. "I'm getting old, so I don't heal as quickly as I used to," he admitted in his call to Tokyo today. "But I'll be all right if I take it easy," he asserted. Much thanks for the additional help being supplied by sponsors and volunteer supporters. We will detail these highly welcome contributions in subsequent postings. We'll begin more regular updates as the sea trials proceed.
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Day 370 [Oct. 8 JST] Jib furler goes on with no apparent hitches for test sail tomorrow Our thanks to the many who have helped! Position: Today's Report Saito-san informed us by Iridium this morning that he and the rigger who flew down from Santiago were able to install the new jib furler, with Saito-san climbing the mast several times, assisted by workers from the fishing company of Hitoshi Hanaoka. If all checks out in the sea trials tomorrow he will leave on Saturday at 8 am local time, exactly 6 months after Nicole BMW Shuten-dohji III was disabled at Cape Horn. Hanaoka-san sent photos, below, of the sails being prepared. The all-steel yacht shows the rusty blemishes and scrapes of the hard times its been through -- and Saito-san himself looks thinner after 14,000 of nearly nonstop ocean miles followed by a rough 6 months being jostled in a packed harbor in Chile. But both are near ready to resume the interrupted circumnavigation. Despite the delays caused by myriad difficulties -- language barriers, legal wrangling, insurance deliberations, equipment inspection/replacement/repairs, and Saito's emergency abdominal surgery last month -- the weather window is just now opening up as spring starts to arrive in the southern hemisphere (though still just 0 degrees C today). He's leaving about the time he would have anyway, having tentatively set a departure date of early to mid October, following the start of the full moon. That date was calculated by Saito-san back in July. From almost the first week after his arrival in Punta Arenas, he has had the tremendous support of Hanaoka-san, an expat Japanese owner of a 60-worker fishing company. As we recall, Hanaoka-san was alerted to Saito-san's presence by a local newspaper article that sympathetically reported his predicament, after NBSDIII was towed by a fish processing factory ship, then quickly impounded by local authorities in Punta Arenas, pop. 150,000, until the rescue / towing claim could be sorted out. He dropped by the boat -- and into a time-consuming but potentially life-saving role of his own. Not only has Hanaoka-san provided his home, shower, meals, and friendship, but has eased some of the payment matters as we have accrued expenses there. His tri-lingual (Japanese/Spanish/English) assistance dealing with port authorities, medical staff, boat repairs, delivery and other matters has placed us in eternal debt to him, not to mention reimbursing him for Saito-san's hospital fees! From the Saito 8 Committee we want to again thank our sponsors for their continuing support, especially Nico Roehreke, owner/president of Nicole Group, for providing much-needed "bridge money" for boat repairs, in advance of insurance reimbursement. This was on top of funds Nicole Group provided earlier and without which Saito Challenge 8 would never have been possible from the onset. Also our great thanks to Yasuo Toyota, general manager of Italian pasta distributor Barilla Japan, for his firm's continued generous donations to cover Saito-san's medical and living expenses while in Chile -- a new donation that committee volunteer Hide Katada was able to arrange just when we most needed it. We thank as well Michael Seymour for his expertise and patience in arranging shipments of repair items to Chile, working closely with Mr. Ohno of Nicole Racing for his masterful shepherding of the deliveries to one of the most-distant spots on Earth from Tokyo. We much appreciate the continued help by James Hayashi, of contributing sponsor Clearpoint Weather, for his company's donation of the Iridium communications, without which conversing with Saito these last 6 months would have been even more difficult (not to mention the phone's and global weather service's life-saving roles during Saito's rescue.) Thanks as well to Dr. John Marshall of Tokyo Medical and Dental Clinic for his expert advice during Saito-san's medical emergency. And not least, our special thanks to Gary Thomas, vice chair of the Saito 8 Committee (and managing partner of the Tokyo law firm White & Case), for his work in a volunteer capacity on a number of legal and insurance matters while providing guidance as we maneuvered the tricky legal waters of Chile. And who, with Saito 8 volunteer Per Knudsen, worked closely with our insurance company to first get clear title back on the vessel, then deal with the sizable insurance claims and continuing negotiations. Now we need to get Minoru Saito and his boat back, safe and intact. |
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NOTE: At this point in the circumnavigation, the Saito 8 Daily Log continues from here.
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